Martha's Vineyard: The Boat

Everyone knows this place where I live, Martha's Vineyard, is an island. Surrounded by the sea on all sides, the only way on or off is by boat or plane.

Most of us rely on the boat, or ferry. Planes are quicker but they're less reliable and more easily grounded by weather. They go to places like Boston, Hyannis, New Bedford, and Nantucket, with a few other stops like Providence, New York or New Jersey, and DC thrown in during the summer.

They're expensive. And, of course, they're tiny. Some hold as many as 20 passengers, but most carry around 10. I've actually enjoyed the times I've flown on and off-island, but for convenience, you really can't beat the boat.

There are generally two big ferries making the trip to the Vineyard carrying cars and people. In addition there are a couple of freight boats (those that take trucks) that'll squeeze on a few passenger-cars or walk-ons.

Fast-ferries run to the Vineyard from New Bedford and Hyannis, but not all year, and some people don't like them because it's easier to get seasick. I've never been seasick but, as any experienced sailor will tell you, there's always a first time.

The actual boat ride lasts about 40 minutes, but we measure the distance of any and all trips by how long it takes to get to or from the boat. Logan airport? Just under two hours from the boat. Manhattan? Four-and-a-half hours. Hyannis? Forty-five minutes (from the boat).

It's as though the 40 minutes on the ferry to and from Woods Hole doesn't count. In fact, over time, I think most islanders see the ride as a bonus.

During the summer the boat is loaded with tourists, all revved up for some island magic. But most of the year it's a meeting spot for islanders to reconnect and catch up on each other's lives.

Some of us nap in our cars. Others curl up with a book or watch the waves. Island kids may start out running around, looking to see who else is on board, but most quickly fall into a semi-hypnotic  state of tranquility.

"Where are you headed?" we ask. Shopping? Doctor's appointment? Vacation?

We stop and chat in the snack bar, pause by each other's seats as we head back to our vehicles, or gather in the parking lot while we wait to board.

Although year-rounders do get a discount, it's not cheap to take your car to the other side, or America, as some call it. There are islanders that pay monthly to park a car in the Falmouth lot to avoid the possibility of not getting passage on a fully booked boat.

Naturally this is very appealing in the summer, when spontaneous trips off-island are pretty much a pipe dream. Then again, who in their right mind wants to leave Martha's Vineyard in the summer if they don't have to?

If someone's sick or there's an emergency, the Steamship Authority is pretty helpful. If you really need to get on or off this island, there's always a way.

Unless of course, the winds kick into overdrive and the sea goes wild. Then it doesn't matter whether you're on-island or off; you're stuck.

My first eight years living here I was never caught on the other side. Then, over nine months, it happened three times. Experienced vineyarders make a speedy run for the local hotels that offer a discount to marooned islanders in need of a room for the night.

Phone calls are made to the neighbors to please feed the pets, and to employers who, along with our island teachers and families, have no choice but to go with the flow.

Broadly speaking, folks who live on an island seem to, by necessity, possess an extraordinary amount of flexibility.

After all, the next time the boat stops running and someone's stuck, it just might be them.

 

Thanks to everyone for your healing words and wishes as I recuperate from this sinus surgery. I'm still a bit "under the weather," but hope to be back on my usual bloggy rounds before long!

 

 

Comments

[The gold digger]

I'm glad you're back! I hope your recovery isn't too arduous - that you feel bad enough to have an excuse not to work but well enough to lounge around and read and watch movies.

[Jouir la vie]

I like such islands surrounded by the sea. It's like Helgoland in North-Sea...
Servus and have a nice day
Kvelli from Germany

[PLRH]

Thank you for another glimpse into Island life. It sounds like a person's attitude has to be "go with the flow" or life would be just too stressful and full of worry.

I hope you're healing fast and will be back to your bloggy self in no time. I miss your posts!

[Julie]

Everyone on the Vineyard must have a "Catch the Boat" story. I will never forget the time the Captain of the ferry held the boat for my Mom.
She had died, and the family had gathered from around the country for the funeral, but of course, since there is no place for cremation on the Vineyard, Mom had to make one last trip off island. The hearse was late, and if Mom missed the boat, she was also going to miss the funeral according to the funeral director.I ran past the purser onto the boat, up to the pilothouse, and found the Captain was my old high school classmate. I sobbed out my story as the last vehicle boarded. He gave me a big hug, and told me "We'll hold the boat for your Mom"..Then he called Chapman Gleason and said "This is the Captain of the Martha's Vineyard" WHERE IS THAT HEARSE??" Moments later, it careened into the parking lot on two wheels and Mom made the boat. In my mind's eye, I can still see the ferry steaming out of town that winter morning. I live four times zones away now, but still on an island, where the community is always ready to bend the rules out of compassion.

[Lynn]

This story brought back so many memories! Although I didn't grow up on an island, I DId grow up by a huge, freshwater lake, and the inland ferry is part of the highway system. It is free, since the people that live on the south side of the lake need to get to the other for shopping and such, and the ferry also carries the logging trucks in and out, as well as the mail.

Prior to the icebreaker ferries being built, my great-grandfather was the mailman. He would take his model A filled with the mail and head out on the barge. In the winter, he would cross on the ice. They used to say that if Norm wasn't crossing NOBODY should, because he took major risks over black ice to get people their mail.

We could tell the time by the ferry traffic. And if the schoolbuses were late, the ferry would wait. As it would for ambulances or police cars.

When I was a kid, before the new hugeamongous ferry was built, that if you knew the right people, you could go up into the boathouse (I think that's the term) and they'd let you take the helm. Very cool. It has changed a lot since then, so my kids won't have that opportunity. But they still love to go on a ferry ride every time they visit grandma's house.

Ufda on the sinus surgery. Here's to a steady and speedy recovery.

[LPC]

I've missed you - even though I was out last week too:).

[Mrsbear]

I love being able to experience it through your descriptions. The boat ride actually sounds like a nice break. You can only go as fast as the boat will carry you. The getting stranded part might make me a little antsy. There's only so much flexibility I'd be able to muster if I were traveling with a van load of kids. Sounds like a neat place to live though.

Feel better soon.

[Casey]

That 40 minute boat ride seems relaxing, I could dig it. It's funny how different your way of life seems on that little island. Cool but different. And here we are, both traveling to the blogosphere.

[Vincent]

If everything on that Island of yours is between 60 to 90 percent more expensive, do people like teachers police street-sweepers and public hospital nurses get payed enough to survive. Or is it just a gated estate with a biggish moat, where all the people you need to survive live off-island.

[Nancy]

We used to have a place on Kelley's Island up here. Also only accessable via plane or ferry. I stayed up there (pre kids) for a while one winter. I loved the solitude...but then got a little antsy knowing that even the ferry wasn't running due to the ice floes.

I sometimes wish we still had that place. There's just something about Islands.
:-)

Glad to hear you are on the mend!

[Beth]

Great writing.

Please spread the word that the newly renovated Woods Hole Inn offers islander rates with a secret word posted on our Facebook page. It's for walk-ins only and its $70/nt. We are across the street from the ferry on the corner of Luscombe and Water.

www.woodsholeinn.com

[Jan]

Again, ouchies on the sinus surgery. I hope you feel better soon, dear!

[Peggy]

Glad you're feeling somewhat better! Thanks for your descriptives of Island life. That's somewhere I've always wanted to visit and maybe one day I will get to. Us non-islanders never think about things like that. At least I don't anyway. Our floods back in Sept did give us small inkling in that there are so many bridges that were out you often couldn't get anywhere you wanted to without going WAY out of the way even if you could then. Thanks for your insight.

[SuziCate]

Glad you're coming along well with healing. You make Martha's vineyard and the ferry sound so quaint. I love your stories about it. I only get the opportunity every few years to ride a ferry, and I always love it!

[BumbleVee]

Glad to see you are up and around Maureen.... hope you feel a lot better very soon.

Sounds like Vancouver Island on the west coast of Canada...and probably some of the eastern islands as well..but, I only know this end of the country. The wind is the worst offender when it comes to the ferries all right.... you just have to wait it out.... my Mom lived in Victoria there for a few years and we mostly flew on and off the island. Thank goodness there was a straight through flight from here...it was only an hour away by plane, but almost two days by car if several sailings were missed... or you couldn't take the driving anymore and had to stop for a rest... plus... I get seasick...ick...flying is much nicer...for some reason I've never been sick on a plane.

[Sprite's Keeper]

It still sounds romantic to me! I would love the opportunity to be sailing away with John for 40 minutes and not have to deal with traffic other than a honking seagull!

[Gretchen]

I think the boat sounds fabulous! One of our favorite things to do when on Long Island with the inlaws is take the ferry over to Fire Island. Love it!

[She Writes]

Glad you feel better!

It sounds like a lovely place to live.

[Penny]

I've always enjoyed ferries. I take one in Alaska every now and then and am always enchanted by the interesting characters I meet.

Heal well and soundly Maureen! Take good care of yourself! *hugs*

[Ginger]

I'm going to confess my stupidity here and say that I didn't know Martha's Vineyard was an island. Seriously. But, hey, now I do! Thanks for teaching me something today.

We have an island down here that is only accessible by ferry - Bald Head Island. I've often wondered what it must be like to live there, and now I know!

[Jane]

What a fascinating read. You made me want to move there with you! (Glad to hear you're on the mend!)

[Tracie]

I love reading about where everyone lives. It's so interesting. Sounds like a great way of life.

I hope you are feeling 100% better soon.

[kathryn]

Being surrounded by water sounds like such a tranquil way to live...but I'm thinking in the winter? Not so much.

I hope you continue to feel a little better every day, sweetie...

Take care of YOU!

xox

[Erin]

Do you keep an island car? A lot of islanders up here have island cars, and then a 'real' car that lives in car lots near the ferry spots.

Really hope you mend quickly. xo

[Gropius]

I'm so happy to hear that you're on the mend. I've been thinking of you! I love to hear a "native" side of the tourist story. Living in SW FLorida, where many come to vacation, there's different reality for those of us who live here. Too few of us take the time to recognize the beauty around us, but those of us who do are grateful to live in a vacation paradise all year. Love to hear that the ferry ride never gets old.

[Twenty Four At Heart]

I've had friends who have had sinus surgery. No fun. : (
Hope each day finds you feeling better.

[Kimberly]

That's quite a life. I think it would be wonderful but maybe every-so-often I might be stressed because I can't just get in my car and drive somewhere. I'm sure once you've been there awhile, the stress diminishes, but to city-folk, it might take awhile. :)

[Heather]

Glad your recovery is going well and glad to have ya back.

Martha's Vineyard sounds like a lovely place to VISIT. I'm just not that relaxed or structured to be at the mercy of the weather. I guess I've been in Texas to long. LOL!

[Ocean Girl]

I can just imagine the community feeling on that boat and how you can separate the natives from the tourists. And the bond you feel with the crew and how they take care of you. There are times you hate the feeling that you have to rely on the boat and its schedule but still you know that you would prefer that than a bridge that would open up the floodgate.

[jessica]

the whole I dea of being stuck in a storm sounds so cozy and possibly romantic. Im positive I would not fel that way if I lived there. I have taken that boat ride before. Very tranquil

[TC]

I love islands and I love ferries although I've never been on yours, just the ones down south and one in WA that goes to Canada. It was so windy and rough on the WA ferry another boat almost capsized on the way back, I still remember all of it but I was only 14.....Thanks for the great post and glimpse of life, GET WELL soon!

[Vintage Simple]

I think I've told you this already, but I definitely hope to visit Martha's Vineyard some day. All I've read and seen of it makes it sound ike it's a really beautiful plac. (Although, I have to confess that the whole idea of getting stuck makes me...uhm...slightly uncomfortable. Then again, I am a little bit neurotic that way, so getting stuck in a beautiful island might just be the thing I need!

And know that I'm thinking of you, dear, and hoping you're feeling better every day...

xo,
-maria

[faemom]

That's really fascinating about traveling. It must be fun to ride a boat that often. But it must really suck to get stuck on the wrong side of the water.

[~The South Dakota Cowgirl~]

I am glad you're feeling better! As always, the glimpse into your life is fascinating! I couldn't live there. It'd be too big a hassle trying to do what I do, so I'll live vicariously through you! Glad you're feeling better!

[ferries]

The story is cool and exciting! I wish I could be on the island where you leave and enjoy the lifestyle as you do. Ferry travels are always fun but I never experienced travelling beyond ferry to france. I'm sure it will be a very different and adventurous journey than travelling by ferry to france. Get well soon.

[ferries]

The story is cool and exciting! I wish I could be on the island where you leave and enjoy the lifestyle as you do. Ferry travels are always fun but I never experienced travelling beyond ferry to france. I'm sure it will be a very different and adventurous journey than travelling by ferry to france. Get well soon.